Gateros Plating

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This is a page that we have dedicated to photos of customers work. If you have any photos you want to share then feel free to send them in and I will dispaly them here.
 
Silver plated trumpet mouth pieces that have been gold brush plated with one of our brush plating kits 
 
Bezel project and gear lever project photo's sent in by Alan Moore
 
Above original bezel with dints and scratched chrome.  Above right shows bezel after copper plating and filling with solder.
 
 
Above shows bezel flatted back and copper plated.  Above right shows finished item, after buffing and prepped again before the final Replica Chrome plate.
 
  
Gear leaver project again by Alan Moore showing the original condition. Middle photo shows gear lever after copper plating and buffing and final photo shows finished Replica chrome plate. I must congratulate Alan on the quality of the prep and plating.
As I have always said you can get better results from home plating than you can get from a platers!
The main reason is because you control the whole process!  
 
 
Anodising projects don't always have to be small as seen in these before and after photos!
 
 
 
 
Andrew Wariner sent in photos of his YPVS shock project.
  
After stripping                                              After zinc plating and yellow passivating     After the rebuild and looking like new!
 
 
Here are some photos from Kevin at Ride Magazine, he is one of our customers who is doing an article for the magazine.
The first is of his basic set up.
 
 
 
 The next photo is of some zinc plated and unplated bolts! Cleaning is key and the one on the end looks a little pitted before and after.
On really rusted items if you cant sand blast then electro cleaning with either our Metal Cleaing kit or our GP1 Alkaline cleaner will
remove all the rust so at least the pits will be plated fully.
 
 
 These next three photos are of the yoke restoration.
He started off with cleaned and prepped steel as seen in the first off the three photos below. Then flash plated with nickel.
The second photo shows the following copper plate that was applied to the nickel strike plate.
The third photo shows the final nickel plate. Looking good!
 
 
The next three of photo's are of some aluminium items that have been anodised and dyed black.
They are all part of the same restoration projet.
 
The first one is a caliper bracket.
The second one is some wheel spacers
The third one is of a fitted indicator bracket.
 
Thanks Kevin for sending those in. 
 
 
 
Anodised top and bottom yoke dyed with our deep black dye and the nut dyed with our gold dye.
 
 
 
 
Below is a picture of a bonnet catch plate that was re-plated with one of our replica chrome kits.
It is on an MG, not the easiest thing to photograph but we get the idea! Still looks good.
 
 
We have a few more zinc plating photos from Tor-Erik.
Can you spot the before and after!
 
 
 
 
A brake hose done by Tor-Erik again, "one done, one to go".
 
 
 
Steve has been using our replica chrome kit and copper plating kit to restore items on his 1936 Austin Ruby.
He bought some neutral nickel strike chemicals from us a little while ago and as you can see below has used them
very well to bring back to life some potmetal door handles!!!
 
I hope you don't mind Steve just posted your email to show people the process.
 
Hi Dan, as requested a few more photos of my latest plating project. These are a pair of alloy (pot metal?) door handles off my 1936 Austin Ruby, as you can see they were in quite a rough condition.
 
Not only were they very pitted, but one of them was also cracked in numerous places. They were both stripped and rubbed down and the cracks were opened up with a Dremel cutting disc and then the handles were given a neutral nickel plate to seal them.
 
This was followed by a coper plate and then a flash nickel plate to make all the pits and cracks stand out. Due to the extent of the pitting and cracking, I ended up covering the whole handles with a thin coat of solder and then carefully rubbing it back to the copper coat, leaving the pits and the cracks filled in.
 
This was followed by another neutral nickel plate to seal the solder and then more copper plating and rubbing down with wet and dry paper until I was happy with the overall finnish, they were then given a final plate with Replica chrome. Needless to say, I am very pleased with the results.
 
Badly cracked, flaking and pitted potmetal handles!!
 
 
With potmetal it is essential to grind out cracks and fill with solder to stop them going further
using solder also makes it easier to fill badly pitted areas and flat back.
 
 
Copper plated. One straight out the tank and the other polished ready for plating.
 
 
Photo of the finished articles, outstanding work done by a home plater, need I say more!
 
 
Here are some photos sent in of zinc plating work done by Alan Davis from the gauge shop
 
A photo of an unrestored gauge just to show the difference!
 
 
Bright zinc work looks very nice!
 
and a yellow/gold passivated one
 
 
Thought I would put this one on, Alan, to give you a bit of free advertising!
 
 
 
Here is a picture of some bright zinc plating on bracket from a Golf
 
 
Paul uses the zinc plating kit to restore parts as you can see with great results as the part is as good as new.
If you are looking for VW parts or repairs then check out his site. 
 
 
Mick has sent me some photos of zinc plating work that he has done on his YPVS Yam.
 
 
These are headstock bearing covers in the silver finish.
 
Rear wheel spindle plate and tensioner again in the clear passivate finish.
 
Domed nuts and washers zinc plated and done in the olive drab passivate. Nice work Mick! I can see the copper grease between nut and washer; a great tip when re-building, always use copper grease.It is messy but can save a lot of hassle for someone stripping later, especially on long through bolts that go inside tubes and are a pig to free when rusted!!!
 
Swing arm bolt, zinc plated and done in the clear passivate and the gold nut and washer done in the yellow/gold passivate.
 
 
Here is a watch plate that was unreplaceable and badly worn which has been repaired and re-plated. Also a testimonial for the nickel brush plating kit
The part before plating quite magnified as the part is only about 2" across!
 
Then the part was soldered and pits filled then flatted and polished ready for the final plate.
 
Part now repaired.
 
Dan & Julie,
 
Many thanks for the kit it arrived on Saturday morning. I am delighted with the results, this kit has restored a rare and value watch part that was badly surfaced damaged and unreplacable. I was able to fill the damage using solder, smoothed down and finally electro plated. Below is a link to the part I was able to repair, the image is magnified around 5 times and the damage was on the righthand side (undetectable now)...
 
 
Kind regards
Gordon Peel
 
 
Below;
The Replica chrome plating kit gives some great results and is very bright which makes it hard to photograph!
 
work done by myself for a one off project. Short straight through exhaust pipe. 
 
 
 
Bright Nickel Plating
 
Hi Dan,
Thanks for the advice re dulling down the finish - I've attached a few photos of the bits I've been doing, coupling rods and valve gear from an old Hornby loco. They're really too small to attack with wire wool etc. to dull the finish. I might give them a gentle blast of glass bead, or just let time do the work.
 

Rusty and corroded before bead blasting!
 
Dull steel after bead blasting.
 
After plating.
 
Tip
On the badly corroded parts you can still see the pitting. It would be possible to plate the items with our copper plating kit to fill in the pits and then buff and re-plate with the bright nickel plating kit. The problem with these parts is that they are very small making that difficult to do!!!
 
Aluminium Anodising
 
Here is a light that has been made and anodised using one of our kits. It is part of a very interesting project developing very bright but low power led lights for bikes. Here is the link to the blog.
 
 
 
 
Completed light in situ on the bike, the finish looks great!!!
 
 
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